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what brush should i use on my dog?

5/1/2012

4 Comments

 
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You've just come home from the pet store with yet another dog brush and you think (not for the first time) that with the assortment of brushes you've got, you could open your own grooming studio!

What's the deal with this? Why are there so many different brushes, and how are you supposed to know which one you need?

Well, here's the lowdown:

Dogs' coats can be broken into three basic categories: those with short or medium hairs that shed but do not need cutting, those with long hairs that tangle and usually require cutting, and those that enjoy both of these traits. You'll need to know where your dog fits in before you decide on a brush. 

Brushes on the other hand are divided into either the shedding camp, or the tangles camp. However, if your dog exhibits both of these features, you'll want brushes for both as well.

First we'll talk about shedding coats. If your dogs hair is short, such as a Labrador Retrievers or a Pugs, you will want a brush you can rub on his coat in a circular motion, keeping constant contact with his skin. This action loosens both the guard hairs (or top coat) and the undercoat, and causes them to fall away from the body. A rubber currycomb with big rubber nibs works best, but there are a few variations of this brush - some with small nibs, some with soft nibs, some in the form of a mit, and some with hard plastic nibs, but they all act on the same principal. Additionally, some short haired dogs have quite alot of undercoat, while others have very little. A carding tool such as a Furminator will pull out this additional undercoat, but a good rubber currycomb is all you need to get started. 

If your dog sheds medium length hair, such as a Border Collie, Golden Retriever or Pomeranian, a slicker brush will help you work through any mats as well as remove loose undercoat. A rake however, will be your workhorse - this tool rakes out all the excess undercoat not easily removed with a slicker. A pin brush is a good maintenance tool on this coat for everyday brushing as it's gentle on the skin, but lacks the strength to tackle mats and bulky undercoat. It's a nice addition, but not a necessity. Finally, you can finish with a carding tool such as a Furminator, when the rake can pull no more hair out. This is also a nice brush to have, and will keep you one step ahead of the furballs under the sofa. If you only want to buy one or two brushes, get the slicker first, then add the rake and you'll do fine. 

Now, long coats which are prone to tangling or matting require a little more attention than other coat types. A slicker is used to remove mats and loose undercoat, followed by a metal comb to check for small tangles and pull out undercoat the slicker misses. A pin brush is a nice maintenance tool here as well, when used daily, and will not irritate the skin, which can happen when slicker brushes are used incorrectly. If you want to start with just one brush, get a slicker, then add a metal comb later. 

A note on slicker brushes: knowledge of the correct method of use for a slicker brush is important both for good results, and to prevent skin irritation. Read our blog post on correct use of a slicker brush, or visit your groomer to have her give you a demonstration.

4 Comments

should i shave my dogs matted fur?

3/7/2011

2 Comments

 
dog with matted coat
The new groomer wants to shave your dogs coat right down because she says it's too matted and it'll hurt to brush it out. The old groomer used to brush it out, and she always said your dog was fine. It's cold outside, and you want your dog to have enough hair to stay warm, but you also want to do the very best thing for your pet, so what do you do?

Well, it depends on a number of things. Firstly, you and / or your groomer need to assess the tolerance your dog has for brushing. If your pet likes being brushed, she may tolerate the de-matting process, or she may not. If she does not like being brushed, de-matting will probably not be the best solution for her. Many dogs fall between these two extremes, and you just need to try to find out.

Secondly, the extent of the matting needs some consideration. There are two things you need to look at... 1) how much of your dogs body has matted fur on it? and 2) how close (and tight) are the mats to your dogs skin? A skilled groomer can run her hands over your dogs coat, and very quickly determine these things by feel alone, because her hands are accustomed to what a coat should feel like. You can do this too, with the help of a metal toothed comb (plastic teeth bend too easily), and perhaps your favourite pair of reading glasses. First, know where to look. Areas of friction will start to mat first, so where her ears rub against her head, armpits, where she chews her feet, and under her collar or harness. Part the hair, and you should see healthy skin, and smooth hair shafts growing from it. If you can't see skin, and the hair is bunched up, it's a mat. You should be able to take a fine toothed comb (wide teeth for Poodles and other breeds with very tight curls), and completely comb through the hair, root to tip, over your dogs entire body. When your comb gets stuck, you found a mat!

Now, de-matting can be done a number of ways, with various tools. If there are just a few small mats on your dog, this usually is not a problem, with the exception of a very few dogs who have especially sensitive skin. A caring, patient, and skilled groomer can remove these gently, without causing pain or stress to your loved one. (Please note, this procedure takes time, skill, and above all, patience. If your groomer isn't applying any extra charges, you may want to ask yourself why.) Another option is to spot shave these mats. Once again, a skilled groomer may be able to hide these shaved areas with the surrounding fur.

If the mats cover large areas of your dog, or even her whole body, simply having them can be quite uncomfortable for your pet. But not just that. Mats pose a health risk for a number of reasons. If your dog has acquired any sort of skin irritation, either due to an allergic reaction, an injury, or something sharp caught in her fur like a twig or thorn, you won't know about it in order to help her, because you can’t see it. The irritated skin can't heal well because air can't circulate properly, and it can't be kept clean. Additionally, if your dog loves to swim, or she has frequent baths, the coat takes much longer to dry, especially against the skin, which can cause further problems. This moist environment encourages bacteria, fungus, and yeast growth, as well as exacerbating any irritation which may already be there. One of the most unpleasant consequences of a matted coat, is that it is a perfect environment for fleas to congregate and multiply, and nobody wants to invite fleas to the party. In summary, these effects can be quite taxing to your dogs immune system, compromising her health, and making her susceptible to other health issues. Regularly grooming your dog is a very important part of keeping her healthy.

So, should you, or shouldn't you, shave your dog?

Well, often, the best choice is the lesser of two evils. Generally speaking, shaving mats is more humane than brushing, especially for large matted areas. If you do choose to have your pets mats brushed out, ask your groomer if it's okay if you watch. If you're not welcomed to do so, you may want to reconsider either your choice of haircut, or your choice of groomer. If you opt for shaving the coat off, you'll want to put a cozy sweater or coat on your pet before venturing outside. Fortunately, these are widely available, with increasing selections of locally made, eco-friendly fabrics. So, don’t feel sorry she has a very short haircut; be happy she will be far more comfortable, and one step closer to optimum health.


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